Pre-season bike check - a checklist

After a winter break the bike is rarely in the state we put it away in. Falling tyre pressure, dried-out lubricant, light corrosion and settled dust can turn a successful first ride into a list of surprises. That is why a pre-season check is the best-spent half hour of the year - or the best-spent money, if you hand it to a workshop.

Start by washing the bike thoroughly. Dirt masks frame cracks, tyre cuts and leaks, while a clean surface lets you assess components reliably. While washing, inspect the frame at critical points - the head tube, bottom bracket shell and rear triangle - for scratches, dents or paint chips that suggest an impact.

Check tyre pressure and condition. After winter the air has almost always escaped and the rubber may have hardened. Inflate the tyres to the recommended range printed on the sidewall and inspect the tread and sides for cracks, cuts and embedded debris. A tyre with a network of cracks or exposed casing should be replaced before it lets you down on the road.

Move on to the brakes, because they decide your safety. On disc brakes, assess pad thickness and rotor condition, and check that the lever is not spongy (which suggests air in the system). On rim brakes, inspect the pads, their alignment to the rim and the cable tension. After adjustment the wheel should stop confidently, with no rubbing when released.

Assess the drivetrain. Measure chain stretch with a gauge - if it has passed the wear limit, replace it before it ruins the cassette. Inspect the cassette and chainring teeth: clearly hooked, asymmetric teeth are a sign of wear. Clean the chain and apply fresh lube suited to the conditions you ride in.

Adjust the gears. After a break, cables can lose tension and gears may skip or shift with a delay. Run through the whole cassette in both directions and check that shifts are smooth and quiet. Also check the condition and movement of the rear derailleur cage and jockey wheels, which wear over time.

Check the wheels and hubs. Lift the bike and spin each wheel - watch for a wobble and whether the rim rubs the pads. Grab the rim and rock it sideways to feel for play in the hub bearings. Also check spoke tension and that none are loose or broken; a loose or cracked spoke needs attention before the wheel starts to go out of true.

Check the headset and fasteners. Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike back and forth - a perceptible knock means play in the headset. Make sure the handlebar, stem, seatpost and saddle are securely tightened to the correct torque, and the wheels are properly seated and clamped. These are parts whose loosening while riding is exceptionally dangerous.

Do not forget the small things that improve comfort and safety: oil hinges and moving parts, check the lights and replace dead batteries, inspect the bell, mudguards and rack. Also check that the pedals spin smoothly and that there is no play in the crankset.

If you have a suspension or electric bike, extra points apply. The rear shock and fork need a pressure check and an inspection for oil leaks. On an e-bike, check the condition and mounting of the battery, the contacts, software updates and correct operation of the assist - these are best entrusted to a workshop experienced with your system.

If any point raises a doubt or you lack the tools, hand the bike in for a general service. A mechanic will work through the whole list systematically, catch faults that are easy to miss, and return the bike ready for the season. A planned spring check means peace of mind for the months ahead and confidence that the first ride ends with a smile, not pushing the bike home.