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How to prepare your bike for winter

Salt and moisture are brutal on the drivetrain and bearings. Whether you ride in winter or store the bike, a few steps make a difference.

Winter is the toughest period in a bike's life. Moisture, road salt, slush and large temperature swings create conditions in which corrosion and wear progress much faster than in summer. Whether you plan to ride all year or put the bike away until spring, a few deliberate steps will help you avoid costly surprises.

If you ride in winter, care after every outing is crucial. Salt and moisture settling on the drivetrain and frame should be washed off, and the chain re-lubricated once dry. A "wet" lube works better for winter conditions - it is more durable and protects against water better, though it collects more dirt, so the drivetrain needs more frequent cleaning.

Bearings are the part that suffers most in winter. Water and salt can get into the hubs, bottom bracket and headset, wash out the grease and start corrosion. After the winter season it is worth planning a check-up with inspection and possible re-greasing of the bearings, because damaged bearings are a more expensive repair that prevention easily avoids.

Brakes and visibility gain importance in winter. A shorter day and worse conditions mean working lights are mandatory - check the front and rear light and charge or replace the batteries. Check the brakes more often than in summer too, because moisture and salt accelerate pad wear, and the stopping distance on a slippery surface lengthens anyway.

Match the tyres to the conditions. Lower pressure within the allowed range improves grip on a slippery surface, and in harder terrain it is worth considering winter tyres, including studs for ice. Regularly check the tread and remove embedded debris, because punctures are more likely in winter, and a roadside repair in the cold is no fun.

Take care of steel parts and bolted connections. A thin layer of a suitable protective product on corrosion-prone parts and a periodic check and possible re-greasing of threads prevents bolts from seizing. That way the spring service will not begin with a fight against a rusted fastener.

If, on the other hand, you are putting the bike away for winter, prepare it for storage. Wash and dry the whole bike thoroughly, clean and lube the chain (a thin layer of lube protects it from corrosion), and then store the bike in a dry place at a reasonably stable temperature, away from moisture and big swings in heat.

Pay attention to the tyres during storage. A bike standing for many weeks in one position loads the tyres at a single point. It is worth inflating them to the upper recommended range and periodically rotating the wheels or - if possible - hanging the bike so the wheels are not loaded.

An electric bike's battery needs separate care. Do not store it discharged or fully charged for a long time - around half charge is optimal. Keep the battery at room temperature, away from frost, and check its condition every so often. Frost can permanently reduce the capacity of a poorly stored battery.

The end of winter is the best moment for a pre-season check - and a good reason to do it earlier than everyone else. By handing the bike in before the spring wave, you avoid the queues and collect it ready to ride exactly when the weather starts to invite you out. It is a simple way not to lose the first sunny days to waiting.

In summary: in winter a bike needs either systematic care after every ride or proper preparation for storage. In both cases the goal is the same - limit the action of moisture and salt and protect the drivetrain, bearings and battery. A dozen or so minutes of attention in November can save a sizeable bill in spring.